Unfortunately they have removed their realistically priced Locost chassis plans from sale due to the high cost of public liability and professional indemnity. It seems that 3 years ago Vodou freely published as set of plans, for a Miata based build, however it looks like they are not around anymore. There are plans circulating around for several different sized frames. This can be confusing. “Book” frame refers to the frame in Ron Champion’s.

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I have included some notes with the photos where appropriate.


I used Tamiya’s Ultra Thin glue to bond 0. I estimate that I spent some 20 hours on it. The chassis plans on this site are based on the original Locost design presented in Ron Champion’s book. Therefore I should not have painted the chassis steel colour overall.

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The images below show the level pkans detail provided in the drawing files. Sat Dec 06, 4: As you can see, I had started base-coating the model too, using Humbrolin search of building defects. Paying respect to Mr. Page 1 of 1. Martin Aveyard balsa frame for a car of his own design, and the finished balsa frame.

To get a taste of classic tubular chassis design, I decided to build a Locost chassis in plastic, using the Ron Champion book. I used a JLC saw to cut some connections, and realign some tubes to square the chassis. Mon Dec 31, 8: So take a look at the photo albums and follow my project as it grew into a home built, road registered sports car. Thank you very much to all who contributed here.


Unfortunately they have removed their realistically priced Locost chassis plans from sale due plasn the high cost of public liability and professional indemnity insurance. Frame plans are too big to upload as a zip file. I might try splitting it into smaller files Bill.

You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum. The first is the frame and the second is the wishbones. Facebook Twitter Car and Driver.

I used various improvised tools to jig the parts, plns Lego blocks, steel blocks and plastic card. Here are the wishbones. I’m especially fascinated with three-dimensional truss structures for car chassis design, which so far I haven’t found a real example of. I cut away the paneling below the prop shaft, whereas the book doesn’t. I don’t know the plams here. As they were freely available for private use, I would expect there is no issue sharing a copy?

Generally I managed to build the chassis within 0.

The top was 20mm loocst with 90mm x 30mm pine supports glued on the long edges and a steel tube frame underneath. Does anyone have a link to a full set of their documents that can be downloaded? I haven’t detailed the build process in this section as the many photos on this site describe how it developed. Fri Dec 05, In the real world however, the overall effect of this discrepancy is negligible given the accuracy of most shop tools or lack thereof. I liked the chassis in bare white plastic, but I thought it would look even better in Humbrol’s Polished Steel.

I bought four meters of 2. The reality was that the process p,ans far from simple and there are many decisions to be made along the way and problems to overcome. Next were the skins, and I started with those at the bottom of the passenger compartment.


The increased length provides an additional two inches for the pedal box and another two inches in the engine bay. The suspension brackets can be mounted according to the layout provided by the book, but the length of the front wishbones should be customized to be sure the track width agrees with the donor axle following assembly.

If you think it’s contrary to the wishes of the folks that made pland plans than don’t bother, obviously. Even cleaning the airbrush was almost too long a delay!

Scratchbuilt 1/10 scale Locost chassis

It definitely has the right effect, but it’s also very vulnerable, and I had to install repair patches in a few locations after breaking the skins. Donor is stripped, and i am about to cut steel.

Next the ‘sheet metal’ of the transmission tunnel, the rear uprights, the footwell front, the sides of the car, the top of the footwell, and the nose bottom panel were added, in that order. Any help or pointers for this would be greatly appreciated. On the other hand, the buffed paint looked really nice, blotchy in appearance with shiny edges, just like steel before it rusts.

Instead I decided to build the chassis in 1 to 10 scale. This can also be accomplished at home with little effort.